Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Yanchep

One of the great things about living in Perth is all of the public land that’s around. Virtually the entire coast is public, and they have all kinds of bushland reserves and national parks scattered everywhere. Here national parks are very different to the ones in the US. They are smaller than the ones in the US, there are a lot more of them, and they're more like our state parks in terms of size and the types of resources they offer.

One of the national parks I’ve visited is Yanchep, about 45 minutes north of Perth. We checked out a cave which had some nice flowstone and other formations, but had really been beaten up by intensive tourist traffic over the years. We also saw some koalas that weren’t quite wild, but nearly so. I was amazed to learn that a big tourist attraction in Australia is “koala cuddling” which is pretty much just what it sounds like: people paying to pick up, hug, and generally antagonize koalas. They are nuts-I have seen the claws on those animals and there is no way I’ll be cuddling any koalas.

The best part of Yanchep by far is the presentation on Aboriginal life. Our teacher was a member of the Noongar people, which is the primary aboriginal group in the Perth area. First we learned how the dot paintings that aborigines make are actually like our books, in that they tell stories. Then we watched an aborigine make a special glue out of tree sap, ashes from a fire, and kangaroo poo (no kidding). It looks like tar but it dries hard in about twenty minutes. They use this stuff to bind just about any kind of natural material together. The best part about it is it's strong enough to hold tools like axes together, but if the tool gets worn or dull you can heat up the glue and it gets pliable again, so you can reuse it over and over. After going through some of the traditional tools he showed us how to make fire, but I need to go to remedial fire making class because all I could get was a little smoke. I don't feel bad though because at least I tried. The only other guy who tried didn't even get that far.

After the fire making failure it was time for music and dancing. He showed us how to play the digeridu, which involves breathing out into the cheeks, then forcing the air out of the cheeks while breathing in through the nose. Using this technique a digeridu player can play continuously without pausing for a breath. He explained that authentic digeridus are not manufactured by people, but are created from trees that are naturally hollowed out by termites. After the digeridu lesson he taught us traditional party song and the accompanying dance, and finished the session by performing the traditional fishing dance, which is basically a ritualized version of the movements one would use to stalk and spear fish in shallow water. It was all great fun and I learned very much.





Photos:

1. Flowstone, stalactites, and stalagmites in Yanchep cave.
2. Me failing to make fire.
3. Playing the digeridu.
4. The fishing dance.

Thursday, November 8, 2007

The Stirling Range and Albany

My first big trip out of Perth was to the Stirling Range, which is a short ridge of mountains that runs roughly east-west in the extreme southwest portion of Australia. Its highest peak is Bluff Knoll, whose summit is 1073 m high, or roughly the same height as some of the higher peaks in Western Maryland. Bluff Knoll is much more striking than our Appalachians to me however; because it rises almost straight up from perfectly flat surroundings that are very close to sea level. Its a beautiful place, very often covered in clouds, and one of the few places in WA that gets snow on a regular basis. It's also a global biodiversity hotspot, with over 1500 species of flowering plants, including 82 that are found nowhere else on the planet. The range is about 4 or 5 hours from Perth, depending on how many road trains (tractor trailer convoys) you get stuck behind.


I went on a three-day weekend and camped the first night just outside the Stirling Range National Park at a place called Poinjup Springs. We had a wind storm and a massive eucalyptus tree came down fairly close to my camp, but other than that the first night was uneventful. The next morning I got up and began a long trek down a deserted country road toward the range. Once I hit the trailhead the trail went straight up and didn't stop for 3 1/2 miles. It was a tough climb, sometimes on fairly exposed faces, but reaching the summit made it worthwhile. I was lucky that I summited on a clear day which made the views spectacular. The Aborigines had many names for the mountain, but they all referred to the many cracks and holes in the face, which they perceived to be the eyes of the mountain's spirit watching them. In the traditional Aboriginal dreamtime belief system the clouds that cover the mountain are the physical manifestation of this spirit.


The trail basically ends at the summit of Bluff Knoll, and the views from the summit were breathaking. I could see the ocean, which was about 40 miles away. The locals tell me this experience is uncommon due to the cloud cover that usually covers the mountain. Except for the ocean to the southwest, it was farmland, bush, and salt pans as far as I could see in any direction. The airspace immediately off the summit is very popular with gliders because of the updrafts it creates, and there were plenty of gliders buzzing the summit the day I was there.



The idea was to pack ultra light and get up the mountain fast, then get as far into the true backcountry as I could for a one night trip. When I got up to the top I realized that the passes between mountains were a bit steeper than what I wanted to try while hiking solo, so I was trying to figure out what to do when another solo backpacker showed up on the summit. We struck up a conversation and decided to hike together the rest of the way. He turned out to be a very nice fellow and happened to be from Perth too. He had soloed the entire range walk, which although relatively short is still very impressive.


We went across the next pass and camped on East Peak, the next peak into the park. Enjoyed a nice evening, and turned in early. I woke up about 3 hours later in the middle of a wicked wind storm that felt like it might actually blow me off the ridge. Even camping on exposed ridges above treeline in the Rockies I rarely guyed my tent out, but I was glad I had bothered to put the guy lines out that night.


Next morning the clouds I had heard so much about had arrived. I couldn't see 20 feet in front of me. There was only one way off the mountain across a narrow spine, and the vegetation was chest high in some places, so I had to be very careful not to walk off the edge. Anyway I found my way off East Peak, back down the pass, and back up Bluff Knoll. At the top I met a teenager who had slept up there the night before as he was breaking camp. We hiked back down together while he told me his rather amazing life's story. He was born in Zimbabwe, and some of his earliest childhood memories were of being on safari and being stalked by hyenas and lions. His father fought for the SAS on the losing side in Zimbabwe's civil war. As a penalty Robert Mugave expelled his family, and they settled in WA, where he and his father now fly gliders around the Stirlings. We worked out that I had seen his dad flying the day before.



To finish off my trip I continued down the Albany Higway to Albany. The countryside is dry, barren, and wildlfires were burning on the sides of the road as I drove. Considering that this was at the height of the rainy season I can only imagine what kind of fires we'll have in a couple of months. It was a cool morning so lots of the resident reptiles were basking on road, including one of the southwest's more well known residents, the blue-tongued lizard. This one was not happy to have its picture taken.




Albany is one southernmost towns in Australia, and in the world for that matter. It was a whaling town as late as the 1970s, but now its just a quaint fishing village on the Southern Ocean with a massive wind farm on its coast. It's not hard to see why they've installed the turbines there; the wind was howling the day I was there. The turbines are massive at 90 m (330 feet) tall. If you're ever in Albany, make sure to try the prawns. They're fantastic!





Photos (from top):
1. Wildflowers in sheep paddocks on the way to the Stirlings.
2. Bluff Knoll.
3. Looking northwest from the summit of Bluff Knoll.
4. Pass between Bluff Knoll and East Peak.
5. Campsite on East Peak.
6. Blue-tongued lizard on Albany Highway.
7. Albany wind farm on the shore of the Southern Ocean.

Wednesday, November 7, 2007

Speaking Australian

Australian speech is a wonderful thing. Technically we speak the same language as they do, but in practice our languages are much more dissimilar than I realized before coming here. First, their usage of common words is often different than our own. Add on top of that strong accents and all the words that are uniquely Australian and you get the picture. A very nice lady I work with told me that if I didn't know what people were saying it was ok to ask because sometimes they forget how little English they actually speak. I could not have said it better myself. Here are a few of the lingual oddities I've noticed so far.

Australians have a general fondness for verbal brevity. I’ve heard brekkie for breakfast, cossie for costume (and for ladies swimwear-I haven’t figured out the connection there yet), roo for kangaroo, sunnies for sunglasses, and rather unattractively Scabs for Scarborough, the town I live in. I assure you the term does not do the place justice, it’s actually quite nice. They don’t even call themselves “Australians”. The local pronunciation is a two syllable affair that phonetically resembles “Stray-in”. And they refer to their country simply as “Oz”.

They also shorten people’s names. Paul Hogan the movie star is known as Hoges, and the late Crocodile Hunter simply as Steve. I have been called Jase, J, Wil, and Wils. Something that I find absolutely amazing is that here, thousands of miles away from home where I am reasonably certain most people have never heard my surname before they ALL pronounce it correctly, but at home where Willeys are everywhere it’s mispronounced more often than not.
Trainers-tennis shoes

Singlet-Tank top

Foreshore-beach

Cashed up-recently paid

Ute-pickup or SUV, basically anything bigger than a regular passenger car

Stubby-a regular bottle of beer, or the little shorts guys used to wear in the 80s in the US, and still wear here.

Bird-slang for girl, same as “chick” in the US. There’s an amusing anecdote involving this term, a car rental company, prostitution, and a very successful ad campaign here in WA, but it’s complicated. If you’re interested remind me sometime and I’ll tell you.

Keen as mustard-If you are keen, you are enthusiastic or focused on the task at hand. When I passed another bloke on a hike the other day he exclaimed that I was a keen bugger. If you are keen as mustard, you are as enthusiastic as one may possibly be. As far as I can tell it is impossible to be more keen than mustard.

Bogan-The closest thing to this is our native redneck. The typical WA bogan is likely to live in an outback mining town like Kalgoorlie and to arrive every so often in Perth cashed up and keen to get pissed and find some birds. He drives an ancient ute with a massive bullbar on the grill and bits of hair from roadkilled roos wedged under the fenders. His preferred cossie consists of tattered jeans or stubbies and a dirty singlet. He has a penchant for spitting in public and drinking large amounts of Victoria Bitter. When he goes to the pub he is either barefoot or in steel toed work boots.

Whack-This has at least three meanings as far as I can tell. You can whack something onto something else. For example the other day I was asked to whack my signature on a letter to a client. You can also “whack” (make) a turn while walking, driving, etc. The least common meaning is a lot of something (see the next paragraph). Australians often also say “heap” in this context as well, as in the advice I got from a bogan the other day after I told him I lived in Scarborough. “There’s a heap of birds in little cossies in Scabs I reckon. When I take the missus, I wear my sunnies so I can get a peek!”

There is a whole “whack” of special words centered around drinking and the bar culture. A “sneaky one” is basically a drink consumed at a time when one ought to not be drinking. As part of my initiation I was taken for a sneaky one at 1 pm on a Wednesday afternoon. I soon realized that a sneaky one isn't really all that sneaky, because there are lots of other people doing the same thing at 1 pm on Wednesday and any other weekday too. A “stubby” is a regular-sized bottle of beer. A “midi” is a small glass, roughly half a pint, and a “schooner” is a pint glass. And to make thing more confusing, these terms only apply in Western Australia, they’re different in the east. One of my favorites is the toast I heard the other day. Midi held high the bloke yelled “Get this up ya”. Simple and to the point, which is good when you’re talking to drunks. (Although here you don’t get drunk, you get pissed). I've told lots of people about tinnies and eskies already so I won’t review them here. I’m sure there are tons of others but that’s all I know at the moment.

Bob’s your uncle-this phrase is spoken to indicate that a task is completed, and completed well. See next paragraph for an example.

Piece of piss-an easy task. I’m not kidding, this is real. I asked a guy the other day for some directions to a place that as it turned out was just around the corner. He replied “Piece of piss, mate. Up the road, whack a left, and Bob’s your uncle.” I said cheers and walked away moderately confused, but I did find where I was going. I even heard one of the guys who work for me use it in a business meeting. I was thinking that pretty much validated its use in polite company, until about ten minutes after he used it he flipped our client the finger when the client made a joke he didn't like. Strayins tend to be an informal bunch.

Flyaway-coupon. The first couple times I was asked in a checkout line if I had any flyaways I was utterly at a loss as to what they were asking me.

Stuffed up-messed up, or wasted, as in “She’s stuffed up that contract”.

Done and dusted-finished, as in “That job is done and dusted”. This is a rare case of Australians saying more than is necessary. I would think that just saying something is done would be sufficient, but apparently in a business context something cannot be done without being dusted as well.

Flash-fancy or nice. I wore my nice pinstripe pants to work the other day and as I stepped in the door a colleague exclaimed “Flash, mate!” He had me ducking behind the nearest potted plant to check my zipper.

Washing powder-laundry detergent.

Getting the mickey out-making fun of someone. I observed the other day to an office mate that Australians seem to be generally cheerful people. She agreed and opined that it was because , in her words “Strayins are happy folks because we get the mickey out of our mates, but we’re just as happy to get the mickey out of ourselves”. Which is to say they don’t take themselves too seriously, and I agree.

Pull a shifty-Trick or fool someone. Used car salesmen (and some consultants) are famous for pulling shifties.

Quicksmart-with haste. As in “Don’t stand on the foreshore, or the crocs’ll have you for brekkie quicksmart.”

Feral-disorganized

Under the pump-harried or stressed. An office worker told me the other day that she was a bit feral at the moment because she’d been under the pump. I just nodded.

Cheers for now

Monday, November 5, 2007

Welcome

I've been talking to Angel and she's been telling me that some of you back home have been asking for information about how I'm doing. In a perfect world I could phone you all and tell you what a ride it's been so far. But that's not on (as they say here), so hopefuly this is the next best thing.

It's been a little over three months now since I left the U.S., and so far the experience has been hard to describe. In some ways Australia has been exactly what I had expected. The people are precisely as I had heard they would be-warm, friendly, and exceedingly open. The land is exactly as the writers describe- in a single word, immense. But in more ways it has been totally different than I had imagined. There have been so many surprises here: the language is even more different than I thought it would be (even to the point of being an obstacle to effective communication in some cases); the cost of living is much higher than I expected; and I've been pleasantly surprised at the tact that most people show when it comes to voicing their opinions on U.S. politics and foreign policy, even though both are clearly unpopular with most people here. Perhaps the most significant surprise in my experience so far is how many small, seemingly insignificant differences exist between US and Australian society. The net result of these difference is that Austalian culture is fundamentally very different than our own. We have some things in common, but it's a mistake to think of Australians as basically the same as Americans with a charming accent.

Anyway I'll be using this space to keep those of you interested enough to look updated on the latest goings-on down here. Hopefully you'll find the stories and observations here worth the read. Feel free to comment, say hello, or whatever.

Cheers,

Jason